Dinner that evening was in the Asian Garden restaurant, where I sampled delicate steamed spring rolls, wagyu beef and banana fritters, all beautifully presented. The next morning began with breakfast on the terrace before a full day exploring Hanoi. The famous “Train Street” was a highlight. Here, trains rumble through a narrow lane lined with cafés and colourful flags, passing just inches from the tables. It’s a surreal experience to sip a coffee while a locomotive slides past within arm’s reach.

After exploring temples, Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum and his simple teak stilt house, I enjoyed a quick swim at the hotel before heading out on a guided street food tour. We sampled fried dumplings, crispy spring rolls and steaming bowls of pho, Vietnam’s most beloved noodle soup. It was deliciously comforting, especially with a squeeze of lime and a dash of chilli. The evening ended with live jazz at Binh Minh Jazz Club, an atmospheric spot just a short walk from the hotel.

The next morning, our plans for Ha Long Bay were cancelled due to an approaching typhoon, so we travelled instead to Ninh Binh, an area of limestone cliffs and tranquil waterways. We glided along the river in small bamboo sampans, rowed by local women, passing through low caves and lush greenery. Lunch at Tam Coc Garden Hotel was a real treat, a serene boutique retreat with lakeside bungalows and stunning views. The five-course meal, cooked fresh by the chef outdoors, was both authentic and elegant.

Our overnight stay at Emeralda Resort was comfortable but less impressive, and I’d certainly recommend Tam Coc Garden for clients seeking charm and character. The scenery in Ninh Binh was breathtaking, though parts of the area were more industrial than expected due to limestone factories.

A short flight took us next to Hue, where we stayed at the Azerai La Residence. This stylish, art-deco inspired hotel sits on the banks of the Perfume River and exudes colonial charm. Despite the torrential rain, our early morning private tour of the Imperial Citadel was unforgettable. With the palace grounds empty and mist rolling across the moat, it felt like stepping back in time. Afterwards, we enjoyed a traditional tea ceremony in a royal garden pavilion, a tranquil, magical moment amid the rain.

The drive from Hue to Hoi An took around three hours, and despite the downpour, we stopped en route to sample barbecued oysters topped with peanuts and herbs. Arriving at Naman Retreat, we were welcomed with warm smiles and honey ginger tea. The resort’s villas are sublime, all private pools, sunken bathtubs, and calming minimalist design. Each guest receives a daily 90-minute spa treatment and access to yoga, cycling and cookery classes. It’s a haven for relaxation and wellness.

Hoi An itself was enchanting. Lanterns illuminated the riverside each evening, and the narrow streets were filled with tailors, cafés and local artisans. Dinner at Mango Rooms was vibrant and fun, followed by a spectacular outdoor show, “Hoi An Memories”, featuring hundreds of dancers telling the story of the city’s history.

Our final stop was the remote island of Saigon, reached by a short domestic flight. The Six Senses Con Dao was every bit the barefoot luxury escape I’d hoped for. My beachfront villa had a private pool, outdoor shower and incredible sea views. The resort’s sustainability initiatives were inspiring, particularly their turtle conservation programme. Early one morning, we were lucky enough to witness the release of newly hatched turtles making their way to the ocean, a truly moving experience.

The trip ended in Ho Chi Minh City, where we stayed at the chic Hotel des Arts Saigon. A rooftop pool and bar offered sweeping skyline views, the perfect spot to toast the end of our journey. That evening, we joined a Saigon by Night Vespa Tour, zipping through traffic and alleyways, stopping for street food along the way. It was exhilarating, chaotic and absolutely brilliant, the perfect finale to an extraordinary adventure.

Reflecting on Vietnam, I was completely captivated by its contrasts, from ancient temples to neon-lit cities, from peaceful rivers to bustling streets. The warmth of the people and the richness of its culture made this journey one I will never forget. For anyone considering visiting Vietnam, I would wholeheartedly recommend exploring with a local guide. It’s a destination that deserves to be experienced deeply, and it will reward you in ways you could never expect.” ~ Lesley