Galapagos Islands Cruise

 This trip to Galapagos was the best marriage Counselling money can buy.

First action.. buy a Camera, and perhaps one thing to remember before you go is… buy a good camera!

Our captivating all-consuming experience visiting Galapagos started weeks ahead of departure with Karen choosing a new camera and lenses for her Birthday and signing up for a local one to one photography masterclass . I think we touched the right nerve and fanned the flame of the girls’ new passion in life.

We travelled with Abercrombie & Kent so as not to make a mistake or skimp on comfort. 

We landed in Quito, surprisingly welcomed by colonial bliss. I don’t usually enjoy travelling in groups, but in this instance there were 16 of us and being like-minded adventurers we blended well. Not so many as to feel herded and not so few as to struggle for someone interesting to talk to. I only have three jokes, so every day I found a new victim. 

We flew via Madrid, and I must admit the code share flight with Iberia was worth it in business class to be on the new airbus A380 top deck. A big double decker experience of modern aviation feels a little less personal because there are so many business class seats that it doesn’t feel quite so exclusive but nevertheless, you can’t fault the comfort, the service, in-flight entertainment… and fillet steak.

Our first night was at the Hotel del Parque in Guayaquil, centrally placed mid-city for an evening stroll and by far better than any ordinary stopover hotel. If you’re only going to stay for one night you may as well make it a good one. I’m not one for slumming it!

From Quito next day it’s a domestic flight to the Galápagos Islands so in total 3 flights, and worth it.

Upon arrival in Baltra airport you’re reminded of the ecological protection afforded this precious destination as you pass Inspection to ensure there are no foreign plants, animals, food or organic material secreted about your person, and outside customs our ‘guardian Angel’ met and escorted us across wilderness roads and water channels by private car and boat to our Hotel. The Royal Palm is a hideaway secreted amidst lava tunnels and Cinder-cone volcanoes where its private estate has nine different areas of geological interest.

Just to add a local induction we elected to join a ceviche cookery class which is one of the most popular dishes in Ecuador and ofcourse my light-fingers couldn’t help consuming half the ingredients before they made it to the lunch table.

From the Royal Palm, we moved onto the eco-lodge Hotel at Finch Bay which is located in a private reserve with beach access. In the Galapagos this means.. never touched by humans!  The hotel has only 27 rooms and provides a tranquil environment off the beaten track surrounded by one of natures most fascinating tropical landscapes. 

There are plenty of activities to immerse yourself fully in the Galápagos experience including snorkelling, kayaking, scuba, diving and hiking but if you are, like me, and enjoy making the art of relaxation a National sport, you can lounge in the pool and soak up the cleanest air on the planet with a fresh juice spritz and volcanic warmed towels. Bliss in the wild.

From Finch Bay, we moved to explore south Plaza island. There’s a lot of different places to see and there’s no point in staying still. It’s the variety of landscapes that delivers a shock to the system. Take good comfy light weight walking boots or trainers.

We explored south Plaza island, one of the smallest and (depending on the season) most colourful islands finding sea lion colonies and both land and hybrid iguanas, the ugliest animal on the planet, yet threatened by none. This with countless bird life the stuff of legend soaring the cliffs for you twitchers out there.

Back to the hotel before dusk we’re off next day to Santa Cruz & Cristobal Island onboard the Galapagos Element transfer ferry boat. Upon arrival at San Christabel Island, we transferred to the luxury motor catamaran Elite with its 8 cabins for our four day charter. This is no ordinary charter, more Jaques Cousteau dipped in Chablis! A welcoming crew handing warm towels and a glass of wine upon return from each of the two daily zodiac wildlife excursions.

Onboard this is your transferable basecamp for all the island visits, each different from the last with breathtaking variety and life-affirming nature at its grandest.

David Attenborough had it good, but it’s still untouched by people. Tourism funds the environmental and ecological preserves here but it still has to be seen to be believed.

We saw square point on Española and Floreana island, Gardner Bay and Osborne islets, Cormorant point, champion islet and Maschera islet on our travels. 

We also stopped off at Post Office Bay, one of the most remote settlers sites with the most remote mailbox in the world. The mailing tradition developed by British Whalers in the 18th century and still happening today where each visitor opens the mailbox and takes home the local post for their return. You customarily leave a letter for a loved one and the next traveller passing enroute to your letters destination will take it and deliver it by hand..  and it works!

The vantage points and panoramic views surrounding the mangroves on the coastline of this region and the wildlife of the small sandy islets and flat landscapes located between volcanic outcrops enables you to encounter a huge population of shore birds, sea lions, and striking sally Lightfoot crabs found clinging to the dark rock.

There are numerous coves making this a fantastic experience snorkelling in the crystal clear winter water and one of the highlights for me was the night transit on our yacht with the balcony doors open and Jurassic birds flying along side, watching us watching them.

On completing our cruise adventure, we moved on  to Picaia Lodge in the transition zone at 1400 feet between the sunny arid savanna, and the lush tropical forest mists of this volcanic island delivering a contrast of landscapes whichever direction you scan.

This is home to the wild giant tortoise, and although these used to be farmed for sailors and whalers food, they’re now treasured and bred in this beautiful sanctuary. 

This last hotel enjoyed panoramic windows and discrete private terraces and an infinity pool sensitively built of local material and impact free in this treasured nature reserve.

Our guide throughout was rightly named as guardian angel, ensuring we experienced and lived and learned but without being patronised 

Every step you make in the heart of this wilderness is without footprint other than that in your consciousness.

Did I mention to bring a camera?” ~ James & Karen