Arriving in Venice is always an adventure — and there’s nothing quite like stepping into a waiting water taxi at the jetty. Cruising along the canals toward the Grand Canal, we passed hundreds of tiny islands linked by Venice’s intricate web of bridges and waterways. Just a stone’s throw from St Mark’s Square sits the Baglioni Hotel Luna, our home for the next couple of nights and perfectly placed for exploring the city.

We were met by the hotel’s General Manager for an immediate site inspection — including my room, 501. I lucked out with a spacious junior suite, classically Venetian with grand parquet floors, silk wall coverings, and a marble bathroom. If I stood on a chair, I could even catch a glimpse of the canal! Each room was similarly styled, with quality furnishings and varying in size and view.

Dinner that evening was hosted by the GM and his team — a delicious introduction to Venetian cuisine. We enjoyed a seabass pâté, perfectly al dente pasta tubes with a light lemon and parmesan sauce, and finished with a rich tiramisu.

The next morning began early with an 8:30am guided walking tour. Despite a light drizzle, we made the most of our early access to The Doge’s Palace — a masterpiece of gothic architecture that once served as the seat of Venetian government and justice. The interiors were breathtaking, with frescoed ceilings, wood-panelled chambers, and original benches where ministers once deliberated. It even housed temporary prison cells, where up to 10 people would wait for sentencing — accessible only by crossing the hauntingly beautiful Bridge of Sighs.

From there, we explored St Mark’s Square. I learned some new facts — like the incredible astronomical clock that displays time, zodiac sign, and even the current month, both mechanically and digitally. We continued through winding alleyways lined with boutiques and cafés, eventually reaching the Grand Canal and the iconic Rialto Bridge. After soaking in the view, we returned to St Mark’s for lunch at the Londra Palace Hotel — a long-standing favourite among seasoned travellers.

Family-run and steeped in history, Londra Palace boasts a prime location on the Grand Canal with views from nearly every room. Though the GM was away, his story — having worked his way up from concierge like his father before him — was inspiring. The staff’s pride and warmth made it feel extra special.

The hotel’s interiors offered a modern twist on Art Deco, with rooms in soft pinks and olive tones. With only 46 rooms, it’s an intimate gem. We dined in the canal-view restaurant, where the staff suggested I try their alcohol-free white Riesling, Steinbock. It was delicious — light, crisp, and perfect with our lunch.

The afternoon was free to explore at leisure — time to stroll, shop for colourful pastas, Venetian glass, and traditional masks, and enjoy a coffee by the water. (Fun fact: cappuccino after noon is frowned upon in Italy, so it was espresso from there on out!)

Dinner was earlier than usual, as we had an opera night ahead. We dined at Olivo, a cosy spot tucked down a hidden alley. It’s a favourite of our host Hisham, who was greeted like family. This was real Italian cooking: black ink salmon ravioli with a mint and pea sauce, roasted vegetables, and baked cheesecake — all served with homemade olive oil and warm hospitality. We wished we could’ve lingered longer, but the opera awaited.

That evening’s performance of La Traviata was unlike any other — staged in an old Venetian palace, lit by candlelight, and performed by just three singers and three musicians. The audience moved from room to room as the story unfolded. Even with only a basic understanding of the plot, it was incredibly emotional, atmospheric, and moving.

Sadly, we emerged into pouring rain, so our post-opera drinks were relocated to the elegant Baglioni bar instead.

Our final morning began with a light breakfast in the hotel’s grand and ornate breakfast room. A few of us had made plans for a quintessential Venetian experience — a gondola ride. For €90 (half hour) or €110 (full hour), you can drift through the canals, and we opted for the half-hour option. Our gondolier, Marco, was brilliant — chatty, full of stories, and clearly passionate about his craft. His father had also been a gondolier, and Marco had been rowing since age 13. Earning a gondolier’s licence involves passing a series of tests, including navigating Venice’s trickiest, narrowest canals. I also learned that all gondolas are designed asymmetrically, making it possible to row from just one side — genius!

The ride was incredibly peaceful and worth every cent — past Mozart’s former home and under romantic stone bridges.

In our final hours, we visited the Rialto Bridge, explored the nearby open market, and enjoyed the sunshine in St Mark’s Square one last time before returning to the Baglioni Luna to collect our bags (and cram in our last-minute purchases!).

The transfer to Venice airport was as thrilling as our arrival. A beautiful wooden water taxi took five of us, plus luggage, through the narrow canals and out into the open lagoon. As soon as we hit the open water, the boat picked up speed, bouncing across the waves — a cinematic farewell to Venice. We docked at the airport jetty, where a porter collected our bags and delivered them straight to the British Airways check-in desk. A leisurely 12-minute stroll later, we were checked in and ready to fly home — hearts full, cameras full, and already dreaming of our next Venetian escape.

~ Lesley